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The Sorg Easel
Features to look for in a studio easel.
(in my opinion) ((much of it learned
the hard way...))
The qualities of a studio easel should include sturdiness, adjustability, and
ease of long-term use. Because you spend so much time at a studio easel, lack of
any of these characteristics will probably affect your temperment and skills -ultimately
affecting your paintings. Problems that you might tolerate, or even expect, in a field easel
quickly become unacceptable in your studio.
Sturdiness
The first quality, sturdiness, is probably the easiest to find. Simply avoid the lightweight
easels. Sometimes people will try to get double duty out of their field easel, using it inside.
This can work with small sized canvases and panels, but they'll start to shake with anything
larger. Perhaps the worst happens when you accidentally bump into a part of it, probably one of
its front legs. The whole painting/easel assemblage is already top-heavy and can easily topple.
A sturdy model becomes increasingly important as you increase the size of the canvas; otherwise
each stroke will start the canvas vibrating.
The heavier the easel, the more stable it will be, assuming quality construction. If you're
considering a tripod style easel, make sure that it doesn't use its rear leg as the method of
adjusting the angle of the canvas from leaning away from you toward the vertical. As you get
closer to vertical, (these type of easels don't allow you to adjust them beyond vertical) they
draw the rear leg closer and closer to the front legs. They get less and less stable, and can
easily fall over with the slightest touch from the front or back.
The better easels are usually of the "H-frame" style, a design which has four legs, usually attached to a base. The H-frame is a stable
design, the most common available, and should include casters on the base. I think
these casters (wheels) are almost a necessity, as you'll often want to adjust the position of
the entire easel at least slightly to get a better position for a still life or model. And
you'll probably want to roll the whole thing aside from time to time.
Adjustability
All but the least expensive easels offer some degree of adjustability. It's
very important to get the greatest degree possible. Consider a vertical format canvas, 36 inches
high; sometimes you'll want to be painting in a seated position, sometimes standing. Keep in mind
that part of the time you'll be working at the top of the canvas, part of the time at the bottom.
This is a wide range of heights, and you don't want to be reaching too high up, or stooping down
low to work.
Oil, acrylic, and pastel painters will want to adjust the tilt angle to suit them, usually close
to upright. Pastel painters should look for an easel that goes past vertical so that pastel dust
will drop to the floor instead of the lower parts of the paper. If you're an oil painter using
overhead skylights or lighting, you may also prefer to tilt the canvas slightly past vertical to
eliminate the glare of wet or shiny paint. Especially on large canvases, this makes a nice
difference.
Most of the better easels come with a paint tray that is separate from the bottom canvas support.
This adjustment is very convenient, as you will usually want to have the tray lower than the
bottom of your canvas, especially when you're standing.
Ease of Use
This is my biggest complaint with the vast majority of other available easels
and what led me to develop my own. I was not alone with this, other artists had the same
gripes. You can see my answers to this by clicking the "About" page, but let me to tell you
about your other choices.
The most common adjustment you will make while painting is the height of your canvas or panel.
Virtually all other easels require that you unscrew and slide the top canvas support up, then
remove the canvas (or risk having it fall to the floor). Next you loosen the bottom canvas
support and raise or lower it to the height you prefer. If you're lowering it, you may first have
to lower the paint tray to get it out of the way. Finally, you replace the canvas, and lower and
tighten the upper canvas support.
You will usually have to jiggle all these parts up and down, which is a pain. The paint tray can
be quite heavy to try to move, and many manufacturers have come up with winches, screws, or rack
and pinion methods to adjust the tray. None of the winch systems I've tried has worked very well
(and this has included some $1,000.00+ models). They often stick, or bind, on the way down, and
require help from your other hand.
I have only tried one rack and pinion model, and it worked very well, except all the weight was
on a pin you had to pull out first, while holding the crank or it would whip around while the
tray was heading for the bottom of the easel.
The screw models work best, but are by far the slowest; you will crank and crank to move the
tray more than a couple of inches.
And speaking of the crank, this is its own problem. If the crank is on the front of the easel, it
sticks out and gets in your way, even painfully so, if you forget that it's there. One
manufacturer solves this by making the crank fold flat, but now you have to unfold and fold it
each time you use it. The other solution that's used is to move the crank to the side of the easel
which works fine with smaller canvases, but requires that you walk around to the back side to use
it with wider canvases.
Finally...
As an artist, your single biggest expense will be your easel. Though a quality
easel is not inexpensive, we're lucky that it's a relatively small amount when compared with many other
professions and hobbies. Beginners, if you can, avoid the common course of buying a cheap easel,
quickly discovering its deficiencies, upgrading to another model only to find that you
and your requirements are better than that, and finally looking for quality. You will ultimately
save money and frustration by going with the high quality in the first place.
Any of the better easels will last a lifetime, but no matter which one you buy or where you buy
it, get a guarantee of satisfaction from the seller. Assemble it in your studio, try it out, make sure it has the qualities
you desire. After all, you'll hopefully be spending many, many enjoyable hours with it.
Blatant advertisement: Let me be obvious by saying that I truly
believe that my easel comes pretty darned close to being the perfect studio easel. After
years of using various designs and talking with lots
of other pro's and serious amateurs, the design of the Sorg Easel has more going for it
than other easels that cost far more. Please click on the "About" link to learn more.
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